Hiking in the Barranca de Huentitán in Guadalajara

It had been a year since my last trip outside Canada, a year since I had taken a vacation. Last April, I finally spent a few days in Guadalajara, Mexico, to get some rest, but above all, to soak up the sunshine and the flavours of Mexico (especially since I had loved so much my trip to Mexico City the year before!).

I didn’t have a fixed plan for my few days in Guadalajara, but I was hoping to get out of the city for a hike. After doing a bit of research, I discovered that one of the area’s most popular hikes is in the Barranca de Huentitán, a canyon located north of Guadalajara.

The Barranca de Huentitán trailhead is located at the very end of Belisario Dominguez Avenue, about ten kilometres from downtown Guadalajara. I took an Uber there early on a Saturday morning, and as soon as I arrived, I caught my first glimpse of the canyon and knew I was in the right place.

A bit of history

The Barranca de Huentitán (also called Barranca de Oblatos) was carved by the Rio Grande de Santiago. It averages 600 metres in depth and is considered one of the most impressive natural formations in Mexico. Some even compare it to a smaller version of the American Grand Canyon.

Pre-Hispanic peoples considered the area sacred and used it as a place of refuge. After the arrival of the Europeans, the canyon was used for agriculture and mining. It was declared a protected natural reserve in 1997.

The canyon is home to several ecosystems, ranging from semi-arid zones to tropical forests. As a result, it boasts a rich variety of wildlife and plant life, and I couldn’t wait to explore this natural corner of the state of Jalisco!

The descent

Since I was traveling solo in Mexico, I decided to do this hike on the weekend, when there would be plenty of other hikers on the trail. I knew I might sacrifice a bit of peace and quiet, but it reassured me not to be completely alone on a trail in Mexico. It wasn’t until I reached the trail entrance that I realized just how popular it was. There were so many people!

Several stalls line the first stretch of the trail, making it easy to stock up on water, drinks, or snacks (you can even buy hiking shoes if somehow you forgot yours). I had come well prepared, though, so I didn’t stop to buy anything and started my descent.

After only a few metres, I reached the first viewpoint overlooking the canyon. It was absolutely beautiful!

There is a small chapel at this first lookout, where, at the time, only a stray dog was dozing. After passing another series of stalls, the trail becomes rocky and begins its long and steep descent toward the canyon floor.

The trail winds down the cliffside in switchbacks. Although downhill hiking is usually much less physically demanding than climbing, I still found myself moving quite slowly. I was afraid of slipping on the rocks, and since I hadn’t done much hiking over the past year, I also felt a little less agile than usual.

Little by little, I made my way down. Several hikers and trail runners passed me, including a few blasting music at full volume, so it wasn’t exactly the kind of hike that lets you fully appreciate the tranquility of nature. Still, there was something exhilarating about finding myself on a trail lined with cacti and bushes in Mexico. I even came across a few donkeys, reminding me that I definitely wasn’t in Canada anymore!

About two kilometres in, I reached another lookout (Mirador del Rio Santiago), which offered another spectacular view of the canyon. The trail seemed a little quieter after that. I’m not sure if some hikers choose to end their hike there, but I was able to enjoy a bit more peace.

Finally, after the third kilometre, I reached the bottom of the canyon and the river.

Along the river

I decided to follow the river north toward the Puente de Arcediano (Arcediano Bridge), the final destination for many hikers. The bridge is about two kilometres farther along, but the trail is fairly flat and offers several viewpoints over the river. It also provides a chance to admire the canyon walls from below (I even spotted a few iguanas among the rocks).

There was quite a crowd on the bridge when I arrived, but I decided to cross it anyway, then took a break on the opposite riverbank. Built in 1894, the Arcediano Bridge was the second suspension bridge ever built in Mexico and the third in North America.

The bridge was dismantled in 2005 because of a dam project, then rebuilt at this location in 2013. It offers beautiful views of both the river and the canyon. The cliffs, seen from this vantage point, are truly impressive.

After resting for a while, I retraced my steps, ready to climb back up to my starting point.

The ascent

There are several ways to climb back to the top of the Barranca de Huentitán cliffs. My original plan was to follow the route of an old railway that climbs directly back to the trailhead. It’s a more direct route, but the incline is much steeper than the switchback trail. I have also read online that it is not officially a trail, but people hike it anyway.

I first headed toward that railway (which is located a bit farther south than the trail I had descended), but I began to doubt my physical ability to tackle it. I was starting to feel quite tired, and the intense heat was also taking its toll. So I figured it would probably be wiser to turn around and head back up using the same trail.

In the end, I’m glad I made that choice. I had to stop frequently during the climb. And even though I had brought plenty of water, I drank all of it, and I was very happy to be able to refill at one of the small stands along the trail.

The climb was slow and challenging, but I still tried to savour every moment. Going on a solo hike in Mexico was definitely one of my magical moments in Guadalajara.

When I finally reached the lookout at the top of the cliff, I almost felt like stopping too at the little chapel where many hikers were now kneeling and praying. Instead, I took one last look at the landscape before heading back to downtown Guadalajara.

In total, I covered 12.2 kilometres with 624 metres of elevation gain. The Barranca de Huentitán is definitely one of Guadalajara’s best-kept secrets!