Exploring the palaces of Istanbul

I knew, before visiting, that Istanbul was a city rich in history. I was obviously eager to visit the famous Hagia Sophia and see the traces of its Roman past (including its hippodrome which has now been converted into a large public square). But strangely enough, I knew very little about the palaces found in Istanbul.

And since Istanbul was the capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, it is quite normal that there are sumptuous palaces there, and that they are worth a visit. So yes, a stay in Istanbul must absolutely include a visit to the magnificent Hagia Sophia, the impressive Blue Mosque and the touristy Grand Bazaar, but the palaces are also not to be missed!

Here is a quick overview of those that I visited.

Topkapı Palace

Located just outside Hagia Sophia on the banks of the Bosphorus, Topkapı Palace was the main residence of the Ottoman sultans from 1465 to 1853. And this palace is huge: the property covers 70 acres and has four courtyards.

Its construction was ordered by Sultan Mehmet II, shortly after his conquest of Constantinople. Over the next few centuries, the palace would be expanded and renovated many times. At its peak, it housed over 4,000 people.

I spent many hours touring the palace, and I feel like even if I had spent a full day there, I wouldn’t have seen it all.

The palace’s harem is probably one of the highlights of the visit. Comprising over 300 rooms, it was where the sultan’s mother, wives, and concubines lived. Only eunuchs were allowed to enter the harem. I found this excursion into the heart of the history, culture and architecture of the Ottoman Empire fascinating.

The palace also has many collections of porcelain, weapons, clothing, jewelry and religious artifacts. The entrance fee is quite high, but completely justified given the historical and architectural importance of the palace.

Dolmabahçe Palace

Oddly enough, I hadn’t really planned on visiting Dolmabahçe Palace during my stay in Istanbul. It’s located a bit further from the city’s historic district, in the Beşiktaş district, and I had never heard of it before arriving in Turkey. Then, one day, while on a ferry to the Asian side of Istanbul, I saw its imposing silhouette on the banks of the Bosphorus and it piqued my curiosity. I took the tram to go there on my last day in Istanbul, and I didn’t regret it.

Dolmabahçe Palace was the official residence of the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire from 1853 to 1922 (apart from about twenty years when the Sultan lived at Yıldız Palace). It was built as the Topkapi Palace was starting to fall into disrepair and its architecture is European-inspired, mixing Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles, as well as Ottoman art.

Six sultans lived there, until the abolition of the caliphate in 1922. Atatürk, the founder and first president of Turkey, then spent his last days there, until his death in 1938.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to take photos inside Dolmabahçe Palace, but this visit completely blew me away. It is without a doubt one of the most sumptuous buildings I have had the chance to visit, and I still do not understand why I had never heard of it before my trip to Turkey.

There is also a harem at Dolmabahçe Palace, as well as an art museum and a café with a view of the Bosphorus.

Palace of the Porphyrogenitus

Not much remains of the Byzantine palaces of Constantinople, but the Palace of the Porphyrogenitus (also known as Tekfur) is probably the best preserved of them. It is also located a little outside the historic centre of the city, but it is worth the trip if you are interested in the history of the Byzantine Empire.

Built in the 13th or 14th century, the Palace of the Porphyrogenitus is said to have served as an imperial residence during the last years of the Byzantine Empire. As it is located very close to the walls of Constantinople, it suffered significant damage when the empire fell to the Ottomans.

Over the next few centuries, it was used for a variety of purposes, eventually becoming an important pottery workshop in the 18th century. The palace has recently been restored and reopened to the public a few years ago. Today, it is said to be one of the best examples of late Byzantine secular architecture in the world.

The palace now houses a pottery museum. Although its pieces are not as sumptuous as those of Topkapı and Dolmabahçe, I still enjoyed the visit. There were few visitors, the entrance ticket was cheap, and you can get a nice view of Istanbul from one of the castle towers.

Also in Istanbul is Yıldız Palace, another Ottoman palace located in the Beşiktaş district, which I did not have the chance to visit. That will be for another time!