One day exploring the charming borough of Coyoacán in Mexico City

Mexico City has a reputation for being chaotic and noisy, but it’s still possible to find some peace and quiet. I recently wrote about Bosque de Chapultepec, the city’s large urban park, where I spent a lot of time. But there’s another place I really enjoyed strolling in the Mexican capital, and that’s the colourful borough of Coyoacán.

Coyoacán is best known as the birthplace of Frida Kahlo. Tourists flock there to visit La Casa Azul, the museum dedicated to the famous Mexican painter. But Coyoacán is also worth a visit for its unique atmosphere, its many cafes and restaurants, and its interesting history.

Coyoacán is located about twelve kilometres from the historic centre of Mexico City. It’s easy to get there by public transportation, or by taxi or Uber, if the city’s notorious traffic isn’t too intense. I went there on a weekday (when it’s usually quieter) and as soon as I arrived, I felt light years away from the city centre.

Coyoacán means “place of the coyotes” in Nahuatl. This pre-Columbian village was founded by the Tepanec people around the 12th century. During the Spanish conquest, the Tepanecs decided to ally with the Spanish against the Mexicas. From 1521 to 1523, Coyoacán served as the headquarters for conquistador Hernán Cortés in his conquest of the Aztec Empire, making it the very first capital of New Spain.

After Mexico City officially became the capital of the colonial empire, Coyoacán became an independent village again. In the 20th century, Mexico City’s urban sprawl gradually led to the farm lands surrounding the village disappearing to make way for new neighbourhoods, and Coyoacán eventually became a burough of the Mexican capital.

But the old village retained its historic centre and narrow cobblestone streets, giving the impression of escaping the city without actually having to leave it.

I must confess here that my initial plan when I arrived in Coyoacán was to first visit La Casa Azul. I hadn’t booked a ticket in advance, but I naively believed that by arriving early, I might be able to visit Frida Kahlo’s famous former residence. But upon arrival, I was told that tickets usually had to be booked weeks in advance. The museum was fully booked for the rest of the month. So, no Casa Azul for me this time…

But Coyoacán is much more than Casa Azul. I took the opportunity to stroll through its historic squares, where you’ll find, among other things, the Coyotes Fountain, the neighbourhood’s emblem. Around the historic squares, there are also many cafes and restaurants, making it the perfect place to take a break.

I also visited the Church of San Juan Bautista, built in 1522. It’s one of the oldest churches in Mexico City. Its Baroque-style interior, small chapels, and central courtyard, a remnant of the old monastery that surrounds the church, are definitely worth the detour.

Then I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the Coyoacán market. You’ll find everything from Mexican handicrafts to flamboyantly coloured tradionnal dresses, as well as stalls selling fruit, spices, and candy.

It was a great day, even though I didn’t get to visit Casa Azul. It gives me a good reason to come back to Mexico City one day (and I promise myself to be a more prepared tourist next time, and book my ticket to Frida Kahlo’s house well in advance)!